Ive recently taken an order with Harris tweed being the choice of cloth. Winter jackets look great when made in Harris tweed. It takes a little time to get the cloth softened up through wear, but once youre past that stage youll love it. Then at the other end of the spectrum. You bring it back with a bit wear and tear and ask for suede elbow patches and repairs to that favourite sports coat you wont give up!
Take a look at the The Harris Tweed Website. Its gives you a great insight into tweed. This quote Ive taken from the website below gives you the definition (much better than I could ever explain) of the cloth and illustrates what a wonderful and unique piece of cloth you really get:
Harris Tweed is cloth that has been handwoven by the islanders of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra in their homes, using pure virgin wool that has been dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides.
What youll also get is the Harris Tweed orb symbol certificate label giving it the authentication of being the geniune product. I sew this label in one of the inbreast pockets for the customers own reference.
The cloth is going to made into a practical alternative to a overcoat when travelling. It has the warmth, throw on a scarf and turn up the collar when theres a cold snap in the air. It can be easily folded and stored in overhead luggage on a plane, and at the other end it wont be creased. Weve also added a poachers pocket to cut down on hand luggage with a flap and zip for added security.
Ive just cut the cloth and its ready to be trimmed for the coat maker. Keep an eye out, I shall be posting up a photo at the fitting stage.
I am extremely proud and pleased with this jacket.
You’ll see it’s one of my signature unlined jackets. I talk a lot about ‘little details’ and making every garment special. Let me go further and highlight these details:
The jacket has been piped on the seams in red (I’ve taken the time to make sure all machine threads matching correctly). Continuing on the red theme. All pocket bags have been made in red. The ‘under collar’ is also in red. Yet to come are the buttonholes, which I know is not to everyone’s taste. But these will be sewn in red by hand. The buttons will be also sourced and a little different from the norm.
“And now the cut”
It has been given a good suppression at the waist. The front of the jacket has the classic huntsman cutaway front edge. Lastly there is the sharpness of the tailored shoulder I produce.
I thought I’d share this with you as you may find it of some interest:
One of my clients will be starting a new job in the near future and we met as he’s looking to freshen up his wardrobe. As we discussed cloth and suits he commented he really wasn’t sure what to order to compliment his wardrobe. “Hold on” was my reply as I pulled out his file. Here I had a record detailing his orders and cuttings of all his suit cloths. He was most impressed and loved the fact we could avoid ‘ordering another blue suit’. I’ll also keep notes on previous chats regarding clothes. A client may comment on a cloth I’ll keep notes on that. I won’t divulge everything, that’s confidential between me and my clients, you’ll have to come an order a suit to see the full package!
Why do I do this? Well, I like to think of myself not just as a tailor who makes the suit and that’s it. As I’ve said in the past, my clients like to discuss the whole package with me. I’ll advise them where to buy shoes, shirts, ties, etc. This is why I’m a proffesional at my job.
It’s all about that extra personnal service I offer, that makes coming to me all that more special.
Tailoring is not just about making the clothes to me. It’s also how you dress as a whole. Customers visit me not to just order a new suit. They will also seek my advice on shirts, ties, shoes, etc. To help create and develop their own style. Bearing that in mind I’ve created a new category: Style. Here I’ll be occasionally posting my thoughts on style and dressing.
I’ve had a couple of enquires to what shoes would I wear in relation to my recent posts of wearing a bespoke jacket with jeans:
For this look, its all about subtlety. Nothing that looks like it can cross over from your work apparel should be considered. With that in mind, I’d choose to wear a pair of suede Hogans ’trainers’ when running around town at the weekend. When holidaying in warmer climates I’d choose a pair of Tod’s car shoes to pack in the suitcase, socks are optional. They’ve got some great designs in their current summer range.
I know some may think its a little early to start thinking about Autumn as we just start Summer. But when ordering bespoke clothing its best to think a season ahead.
This is probably my favourite cloth, it is a West of England Flannel. What makes this cloth even more delicious is that its Lessers Lumb’s Flannel. A superb cloth, unfortunately the yarn is no longer available. So if you get the opportunity, order this flannel now. Once the stocks gone that’s it!
I wanted to show you this very advanced fitting. The sleeves are baisted in and not finished. Why? Well the client holds each arm slightly differently and I wanted to check his sleeve ‘pitch’ before finishing the garment. I’m not one to say its 2 fittings when making a garment, I’m not one to say its 4 fittings. I’ll have the all the fittings I require to get to the high standards I set myself. But ultimately the best fitting is once the customer takes his suit away and wears it a good dozen times in his environment. This let’s the suit settle and body heat get into the garment. I always insist that the customer then returns to see me. Allowing me the opportunity to view my work and check if any alterations are needed at this time